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Thinking of selling my 40. How much could I ask for it?

Thinking of selling my 40. I'm moving from Seattle area where the 40 works fine, to San Diego area where that just barely gets me to the local supermarket. I could just upgrade to the 60, but then I'd go with the 60 AND supercharger which adds $13.5K. At that point, I'm thinking I'd rather get a P85. Big jump, but I got the 40 because A) I ordered one in Feb of last year before anyone knew how good these cars would be, and B) because it was adequate for my daily use.

So, anyway, it's a MC Red 40 with black leather seats and pano roof. All else standard. I got it end May and it's got less than 3K miles on it.

What would be a reasonable price?

I hate eBay and have not used it in a very long time, and never for something as expensive as we're talking about. However, it would be an option for you to just sell it there and specify the minimum you'd accept for it as your reserve.

My guess would start at $64K without TECH package.

It would be nice to see some pictures here.

Why not just talk to tesla about buying a p85 loaner?

A new 60 kwh MS with all of the rest of your options can be had for about $69k based on today's design studio figures. That is with the $7500 federal tax credit. The pricing of the 40kwh battery compared to 60kwh was $10k less when that option was offered, so on the upper end I would put your car at $59k. Someone buying a used car cannot get the federal tax credit so they would probably expect that credit to be built into your price. At the lower end, I recall my husband telling me that Tesla would calculate a trade in value subtracting $1k/month and $1k/1000 mi so that would be another $7k off based on your 4 month, 3000 mi usage. That puts the lower end at $52k.

EESROCK: then again, the car is production limited. I guess depending on location someone might pay extra to get the car after testimg it...

@amish - great idea!

My guess, right now, since there is not a whole lot of inventory (and when there is inventory, you will need to compete against 60s and 85s), Tesla might be the best choice to get you into the car that you want with the most reasonable sacrifice in cashflow.

Good luck - I hope that it works out...

I kick myself for not keeping my 40 reservation... I should have just done what I ended up doing.

BUT i didn't like that I would have to carry a 60KW battery all the time and only get the range of the 40KW... since this is all software.

I would even bet the inverter is the same between the 60 and the P cars.

If you sell the car before 3 years aren't you meant to give back the tax credit??? Thought I read that somewhere.

Sell it to Tesla. They can flip the switch for free and sell it as a 60 used vehicle. Then buy a new one if you want that.

@HenryT2 - You do realize @Bigez is selling his S85 for $69k, right? Perhaps you two could work something out and sell your S40.

It will be only 6k more than your S60 + SC upgrade...

Of course I'd love to trade mine in for a loaner. But I don't want to pay for the tech package and I think they all have them. I'm not sold on the air suspension and I believe almost every one has that too. Also, I'm rather fond of the MC Red and I haven't heard of any loaners that are red.

Consequently, I'd probably have to order a new one.

I'm just wondering if I'm going to take a big hit on it. Normally, you'd be crazy to sell a car a few months in, but I think with Tesla, and ESPECIALLY with the 40, it might work out.

I wonder if I sell mine with the taxes deducted already (also I bought mine in WA where there was no sales tax so another big savings), will it be worthwhile versus upgrading or trading for a loaner.

Henry - there were some P85's sent out to the stores for test drives without air suspension, including the one I test drove at Fashion Island in Newport Beach (not horribly far from San Diego). You might see if they can sell you one of those and trade in your 40.

@NoMoDinos

Thanks, I'll check it out. But I suspect they all have the tech package. I wouldn't mind a grey instead of my red, but I really don't think the tech package is worth it and am undecided about the benefits of the air.

bonaire is on to something - Tesla receives the most value from that car because they can add $10K in value simply with a few lines of code. How much of that $10K would come your way is anyone's guess, but I bet tesla would pay more for a 40 that was a 60 than if they had simply made 40s and were buying those back. Never hurts to ask...

Also, we're in the early stages of the Tesla marketing evolution, so I would think they would benefit from having a happy paying customer instead of someone 'caught' in a 40. Of the wrong color.

They could use you as an 'option up' business case. I loved my 40, but when I got my SECOND MODEL S, I added the Tech package and more range...blah, blah etc.

I imagine the are monitoring the thread, so maybe you'll get a phone call.

Bonaire and Cattledog have good thinking and Tesla will sell demo cars from other showrooms. You will probably need to offer on an 85kWh pack to have a shot getting some kind of price concession since they know you could always pay the $10k up charge to get the 60.

With an 85 selling for 69K and your model being fairly basic, I would expect you to get about $50k for the car. You might get more but outside of a sale to Tesla this would be reasonable both for you and a buyer. You did not pay any sales tax in Washington State, and are makng a choice to give up the $7500 federal credit which is a choice, so you will not lose too much. Your cost was in the low 60's for the car and you are eligible for the credit taking your cost into the 50's so anything above $50k is a good deal for you and on any other model you would have lost much more registering the car.

Living in SD, I find our normal driving is well within range of a 40, and with the network of public chargers you might find that it would work well. Look for chargers by your new office there is a good network in SD. I would give the 40 a try, but sell before paying CA registration tax if you decided that another model would be better for you.

Agree that anything more than $50,000 won't sell. It is also not really "production limited" but for the VIN.

I'm sure you have thought this all through, but I live in North San Diego County with a 40, and have absolutely no trouble at all with distances here. I have a 60 mile commute, and no range anxiety at all...I just plug it in every night.

What would be the worst case scenario if you kept it a little longer, to see how it works for you here?

I think there are a lot of people who want a model S and can't afford more than 60K or so - all waiting for Gen 3. I think a gently used 40 will be in high demand. I would post it for sale on TMC - I bet you will be surprised at the amount of interest.

@Hawaiibee - actually no, the inverter is the only difference between the 40/60/85, and the P85. In actuality, the motor is the same for all of them, and Tesla uses software to limit the acceleration of the 40/60 so that they don't suck through battery too quickly. This limitation is fairly minimal though, which is why you see 60 owners getting 5.1 seconds from 0-60.

Thus, the performance of a 60 vs an 85 is not that different. The real difference comes with the P85, which has a high powered inverter. This allows the car to shoot far more electrons into the motor, which allows that same motor that's on an S40 to go from 0-60 in 3.9 seconds. In summary:

S40/60 - Software in car limits how much juice flows to the motor, thus (slightly) limiting acceleration.
S85 - No software limitations on acceleration, but car is limited by how much the standard inverter can push to the motor.
P85 - High powered inverter allows a fatter pipe of electrons to the motor, allowing super car acceleration.

Same motor, very similar battery pack, the inverter is the main difference. All of the above was explained to me by a Tesla tech in the Fremont store.

@yodasminion - my understanding is that the P85 has a hand-wound motor that has higher power output, as well as the higher power inverter.

Also, the smaller battery has fewer cells in parallel (since the voltage is the same for a smaller overall capacity), so if you limit the discharge rate per cell the same way, you generate less power from the battery pack as a whole. That is the main technical reason they did away with the 40kWh battery option, as the power output would be pretty limited.

Obviously it's worth how much you think it is, or how much someone is willing to pay for it; whichever perspective you wish to accept.

If the 40 with no options is MSRP 62K, and you already titled the car then the tax credit loss is factored in, ignoring local and state incentives, the car is worth max 52K with no mileage and age of vehicle factored in. If you are selling warranty and service extensions with the car, then you could probably add that in at full prorated value of the current cost.

Your best bet for full price is probably from someone who thinks the car is collectible.

Good luck!

Ill give ya a hug for it and since I'm in Portland it would be a short drive lmao

I'd buy it for $52K and will be in Seattle this week. Let me know if you would be interested in selling it.

I may be interested as well

After pricing the alternatives, I've decided I'm going to live with the 40 until it doesn't work anymore. As much as I'd like to get the P85, I've never been able to justify spending that kind of money on a depreciating asset.

In San Diego, I can mostly drive to and from the farthest destinations, it's just that I can't cruise around once I get there. But I might find some convenient charging stations and that may improve my situation.

Thanks for all the advice, though.

HenryT2 - I think you'll be OK. We have two Model S's, and my wife's 40 continues to surprise her with its actual travel radius. It has not been an issue for her even with a handful of outlier distance trips. You'll know pretty quickly after trying it in your new location.

jat wrote:
"my understanding is that the P85 has a hand-wound motor that has higher power output, as well as the higher power inverter."

Why would hand-winding help? Presumably it's not that the human winder imparts of his karma onto the motor, but instead that there is some manual optimization that can be done in the winding process that a human can do and a machine cannot. But what exactly is it?

(Unfortunately the way that tends to be written it comes across as new age hand-waving to someone who isn't really deep into electric motors.)


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