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PLEASE WAIT - Displays busy

I hadn't planned on writing this, but the very first time I got into the car, I noticed a Warning Triangle blinking: 12-V Battery problem. Please put in a new battery or words to that effect.

I cannot tell the exact wording, because when I went to the car this afternoon (after all, it is an oldie, all of 3 days): everything worked except the dashboard (where the speedometer is) being totally black with a sentence:

PLEASE WAIT
Displays busy

I looked in the Manual, but not even the big European manual has a word about this.
I called the Danish office (no office in Sweden). No answer, but it is Sunday.
So I called the Dutch Emergency 24/7 number and got an answering machine that promised to call back. That was 2 hours ago.

I had 4 people at home that I had promised to drive home, and everyone was looking forward to that. Instead I had to borrow a car from a neighbour and drive them home.

Coming home 2 hours later, the display still reads the same thing and have a guess, did someone call back from the 24/7? You guessed right.

Now what if I had had to go to the airport? What if there were a medical half-emergency? What if...???

I mean, first the Battery fault upon delivery and now this after 3 days?

Or is it me, the Swedish idiot again, and, if so, what should I have done / do?

I need to get to the office tomorrow. My old car is deregistered.

Advice, please.

Robert

Try a reset. Press and hold the top two steering wheel buttons in for about 15 seconds. This resets the instrument panel. Then press and hold the scroll-wheels in for 15 seconds to reset the main display. With a bit of luck, you should be good to go.

Thanks for bothering.
Please do explain a little more specifically:

two steering wheel buttons? There are buttons galore. Are you referring to the scroll-wheels (probably not). So which buttons precisely?

And secondly: if I reset the main display, will I lose all the settings I have done (radio stations, etc etc)??

Again, thanks for bothering.

Robert

Scroll wheels reset the main screen, holding the two above the scroll wheels resets the dashboard.

Reset does not lose settings

Robert -

Yes, the two scroll-wheels -- besides scrolling, they push in

And immediately above those scroll wheel buttons are two additional buttons. Pushing the top two will reset the dashboard, pushing the scroll wheel buttons resets the big flat screen.

You will not lose any settings from doing a reset; and it does clear up issues sometimes.

Sorry you are having trouble!

Bill

Robert. There are three buttons on each side of the steering wheel. Below the scroll, the scroll and above the scroll. Hold the two buttons above the scroll down for about ten seconds then wait. Then hold the scroll buttons down until the display goes black. Wait.

I think you have a 12 volt battery problem. You may need a jump start for the battery to get the car to run. The battery probably needs to be replaced. I went through a similar scenario last week. Battery terminals are under nose cone.

Hi, everyone.

YES!!!!!! It worked.
However, I only did the dashboard, since the big flat screen was OK anyway. I don't have to do both, do I?

That's brilliant. What a community!! Thanks ever so much.
However, if I may add the following:

Why doesn't the Manual give this info?? It doesn't! Not where I can find it.
And why didn't the 24/7 "service" call back?
Couldn't the dashboard text (see Thread Title) include the following:

If the problem doesn't go away, reset (see Manual x.xx) - and then make sure that the Manual has this info. Surely this isn't for a friendly community to do?
And why did it happen in the first place?

Would have saved me 80 miles in my neighbour's car and a lot of frustration and nervousness.

Robert

@Dwdnjck
No, the car runs. Tesla seems rather concerned about the Battery problem, though, and have even indicated that they will come up from Copenhagen, Denmark, to Stockholm (free of charge) to fix it, however, first they have to know exactly what it is, and, seemingly, they don't.
But, again, I don't understand. I thought the car runs on the big Battery, not the 12-Volt??? Anyway, the car was brand-new when I discovered this. Actually, it was the very first thing I saw when sitting down for the very first time. How can such a Battery need to be replaced?

Anyway they're on to it.

Robert

The small battery powers the electronics and other systems in the car (door locks, windows, etc.) while the big battery only powers the wheels. Does that help clear it up?

The big battery charges the smaller one so it is always fully charged. If it isn't there is likely a problem with:

1. The smaller battery
2. The charging system

There was a bad batch of 12 Volt batteries. Yours may have been manufactured at that time when considering the shipping time for your car. I'm assuming that you have Firmware version 5.0 your car since it was released in anticipation of European deliveries.

Version 5.0 is set up so it will alert you if there is an immediate problem with your 12 Volt battery. Some earlier versions of the firmware didn't have that feature. Soon you will be able to experience the excitement of seeing an update sent to your car automatically with a new feature update! If you want some support going through that process when the time comes we can walk you through it here.

My 12 Volt started getting weak and Tesla called me to schedule a replacement before I even knew that it was going to start underperforming. I'm sure that your service center will be ready to intercept problems in the near future in the same fashion.

Since delieveries are just starting to get rolling in Europe they may not have staffing needs of service centers sorted out completely yet. They are in their infancy stage now but they will be up to speed in no time at all. It was amazing to see how agile Tesla was at adapting staffing needs and new service center needs in our area.

It seems as if it takes a long time while it is happening, but in retrospect what Tesla has accomplished amazing things in a very short period of time. It is truly mind blowing.

@jeffssuff

I am not sure about this yet, but I think that the 12 Volt might be charged directly, while the car is plugged in, with the newest firmware update. I believe this was a modification to address the old vampire load issue.

I am not certain about the 12 Volt being charged directly. But, I do know that many systems, such as those that maintain battery temperature and run the car's computer at night, now come directly from shore power while plugged in, instead of from the main battery. This is one reason why, it is beneficial to plug to any outlet that is available at night when it is very cold outside if you need to do long trips.

Sorry for not making it clear which buttons to press for a reset!

One reason it's not in the manual is it's rarely needed. I went 7 months and 3 software updates before needing to do a reset. Others have never needed it. Still, I agree it might be a handy item to have in the manual.

The 12V is only charged from the large battery. If this charger fails, the 12V will soon loose it's charge. Connecting the car to off-board power will not directly charge the 12v battery.

I'm about 99% sure all production in the last 3+ months is using the newer battery. I'm not sure when the production switchover happened, but I very much doubt any European deliveries have a battery from that bad first batch. Tesla has been replacing all the batteries from that early bad batch here in the USA. Still it doesn't mean there will be a rare bad 12v battery.

@jeffsstuff
It does say that the 12-V Battery is sealed and OK for life. Of course, "life" isn't defined. But if "life" means one day (the transport from Copenhagen to Stockholm), then I'd say: No, guys, that won't do!

@Captain_Zap
Yes, 5.0.
Now, if you (assuming that you don't work for Tesla) know that there was a bad batch, then surely Tesla know it, too. If so, why on Earth didn't they exchange the Battery upfront?
No, there isn't any service center in Sweden. For the time being it is Ranger Service at hugely inflated prices (the Battery, though, will be f.o.c.). All the more important, then, that those cars are REALLY checked-up prior to delivery.
I have other, non-crucial issues as well. The radio sometimes refuses to turn off, however I press the left rolling wheel, but that's peanuts. The Battery problem isn't, nor is the black dashboard. That a Manual doesn't contain a trouble-shooting chapter is arrogant, to say the least, especially so, if the 24/7 "service" doesn't work Sundays (they STILL haven't contacted me, after 5,5 hours!!!).

But again, thank you, all, for giving of your time and help me trouble-shoot the wonderful car.

Robert

@TeslaTap.com
In normal manuals, most of the items listed happen rarely to never. There's a host of things in my Ford Focus Ethanol car that never happened during the 9 years I have had it. So that's not a reason not to state how to do a reset. I mean, I have spent a very good part of my Sunday tending to a problem that was fixed within 35 seconds.

Today nothing of terrible importance happened, but it could have! What if the car had been parked in the Concert Hall garage very far from my home? Or indeed in the street (as it was yesterday)? It would have been towed away and very probably destroyed, since they wouldn't have a clue as how to handle it and no way to even get into the car. So there is a LOT to be said for either answering the bloody phone or writing a Manual that helps you trouble-shoot.
And, of course I am concerned how 2 major faults could happen within 3 days of delivery. What else can I look forward to? Should I have kept my old car serviceable? Should I tow it behind the Tesla at all times, just to be safe? :-)

Robert

@Robert I am sorry you're having a horrible first few days. Not that it should be this way but this Forum is your first, best resource for information and troubleshooting. Like cell-phones ( the new ones, not yours) the manual would be impossibly huge to cover everything and it still could not cover the constant updates.

The lack of communication is an ongoing problem with Tesla and I fear it's going to become intolerable before it gets better.

Keep us updated on your situation. It's a pain in the butt for you and another learning experience for us.

People that have had initial problems like the 12V battery problem appear for the most part to not have more problems once it's fixed. Probability is on your side. I had a problem with the dc-dc transformer the first week i had the car(10 months ago), and really nothing much to speak of since.

What was the transit time from Fremont to Sweden? Could the 12V battery be adversely affected by prolonged low charge? I believe the main battery is installed in the EU, but don't know when the 12V battery is placed.

The 12 volt battery issue isn't just a batch of initial bad batteries. When my 12 volt battery was recently replaced, along with the main high voltage battery, it was called an upgrade and conversion to a deep cycle battery, not just a replacement. It required a wiring harness, mounting changes, and new connectors to be installed in the car. The technician said it wasn't just a bad run of early batteries as has been described in this forum and Elon's comments in interviews. The tech said there were some bad batteries in early production cars like mine, but that there was also a hardware design change and new proirity in terms of how the 12 volt battery is recharged and what it does. My impression is that this affected cars below an 8xxx, so I doubt this was Robert's issue, as EU cars entered production much later. My 12 volt battery threw more errors after the recent upgrade, and required further repairs including new cover caps, switches.


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