TM now has several adapters for sale. Is there much benefit to buying some or all of them to have on hand when out on the road?
Some 14-50 DYI adapters and extension cords I've seen have clunky metal boxes on the receptacle end. This kind is hard to find: "RV14-50R 50 Amp Receptacle" on AMAZON.
OK for the TT-30 adapter.
On the 14-50 male plug.
Hold the Tesla plug in your hand looking at the prongs like you are going to plug it into your face. Round ground UP.
The left blade is the 120 volt hot.
The right blade is the 120 volt neutral.
The lower blade will not be used.
The top round is ground.
Worst case it will show a red light and you will have to reverse the hot and the neutral but that's what I have marked on my 14-50 plug.
Tesla makes a 6-50 adaptor as well which is 50 amp 2 phase with a common and *no ground* This is what I use for charging at home and thus the car itself seems to work without ground.
I've been thinking of making a 10-30 -> 6-50 adaptor(dialing the car down to 24A when using it) and a 14-30 -> 14-50 adaptor(again using 24A).
This way no tying of neutral to ground or any other hacks should be required.
I'd also like to make a 20A 110 -> 14-50 adaptor, since the 15 amp one that comes with the car will only charge at 12A vs being able to use 16A on the 20A connector that the chargeport stations at work use as a second connecto when the primary one is in use.
@MrB - actually the 6-50 is ground, hot, and hot -- no neutral. You only need the neutral on a 240V plug when you also have some 120V loads. The Mobile Connector doesn't need (and in fact doesn't even connect) the neutral line, but does require ground for safety.
So, if you wire up a 10-30 to a 6-50, you are still tying ground to neutral.
@email@example.com Funny, I just looked it and and you are right.
I guess my home wiring is more messed up than I realized since the ground on my 6-50 is connected to neutral in my (ungrounded) subpanel, though I guess since neutral is connected to ground in the main panel it's all the same from non GCFI circuits.
@MrB - any 240V subpanel should have have 3 insulated conductors plus ground from the main panel, and neutral/ground should not be bonded at the subpanel. It can have its own ground connection if necessary (and may be required in some cases).
It isn't so bad in the case of 240V-only circuits like a 6-50 plug, but the reason you don't want neutral to be tied to ground (which is usually carried on uninsulated conductors, chassis ground, metal boxes, conduit, etc) is that it carries back the delta between the two phases. Ie, if phase A is carrying 50A and phaseB is carrying 10A, then the neutral back to the main panel is carrying 40A and could shock you. The problem is that the 6-50 outlet probably isn't the only thing on the circuit, and it could provide a loop back to neutral over uninsulated conductors. In this case, you are probably ok since the car isn't actually grounded and presumably your 6-50 outlet isn't otherwise grounded, but it definitely won't pass code.
@Jat - for a 10-30 to 14-50 adapter, which is "least bad" - tie the 10-30 N to 14-50 G only, or tie the 10-30 N to the 14-50 G and N (i.e., tie 14-50 N&G together)?
@nickjhowe - for mine, I left neutral disconnected and tied 10-30 neutral to 14-50 ground, then labelled the box as such. I think tying them together is ok as well for this application, but it is harder to make pigtails with the heavy wires, and you certainly don't want to try and make two conductors fit into one screw terminal on the receptacle.
Leaving neutral disconnected means that any 120V equipment downstream of the 14-50 plug (if it were ever used for anything besides the Tesla Mobile Connector) would simply not work, rather than potentially leaving the delta current exposed on bare ground wires/conduit/etc, so that is probably a bit better.
Thx. I used SOOW 6/4 for the pigtail, and the 10-30p was man enough to accept two wires onto the neutral pin but I think I might go back and disconnect one just to be on the (slightly more) safe side.
I thought about adding an extra regular 5-15 plug just for the ground, but the place where I intend to use it at my sister's house doesn't have a 120V outlet anywhere near it, and then you still have the issue of making sure the 120V plug was always plugged in or it would be ungrounded.
A plug that never gets unplugged is called a hard-wired connection.
:) always plugged in whenever the 10-30 was plugged in
You guys are making it really hard for me NOT to want to just make a 14-50 to 10-30 adapter for myself :)
Here's a 14-50 to 10-30 on Amazon. Don't know if it would work.
Well that's what showed up on a search. Looking closer its hard to tell for sure if this is the right connector.
Sorry, this was 14-50 to 6-50. Just looked at package close-up. Search failed me.
The coveted 14-50 female cord cap!
or on ebay
Finally. I can make my TT-30 adapter and look official.
@jat and @ Nickjhowe, you two are awsome.
I was trying to aviod making my own, as I thought Tesla would make the adapters, only to realize that Tesla's adapters won't help me if the mobile connector is not long enough to reach the dryer outlets at other people's houses.
After weeks of reading both of you, I think I finally understand how to do both the 14-30 and the 10-30 adapter now. I already bought the Camco 14-50 extension cord, 30 feet, 50 Amp.
Since I am only going to draw 24 Amp, why do I need the 6 gauge SOOW? Why not get a 10-30 dryer cord, a 14-30 dryer cord, two of the femal Camco 50A Power Grip Replacement Receptacles, and with the extension cord, I should be able to use any dryer outlet as long as my Model S is within 60 feet (20 + 30 + 10 for the dryer cord)
@Hills - you are right. A 10-30 dryer cord SHOULD be rated for the 24A continuous load that you are going to draw, and therefore 6/3 isn't necessary. Mine was more for aesthetics than anything else.
Clearly, the two of you know more about electricals than the rest of us. Today, Tesla Menlo got back to me that Tesla will not make these adapters for fear of liability from the car charging at the wrong rate. Nick is the one who pointed out that the Tesla adapters can only attach to the end of the mobile connector which is unlikely to reach most dryer outlets.
Using the links above, each adapter can be made for about $35 in parts. Not as beautiful as Nick's, but much easier I hope. I will find out how easy or hard this weekend. Reason for this post is that many others struggled to understand how to do this for the past few weeks. You cannot buy these adapters! They are not for sale, not even from Stayonline.com.
I got my 14-50 installed yesterday and my electrician is coming back with the 14-50 to 10-30 custom 30 foot extension cord tomorrow. (To be used while visiting 'far away' friends and relatives).
Now I wait for my car (3 more weeks... I hope...)
@Hills - do you mean they won't make a 14-50 to 10-30 adapter, or won't make a 10-30 adapter that connects to the proprietary connector on the Mobile Connector?
The former isn't unexpected and I wouldn't expect others to do it, which is why we are doing it ourselves but won't make them for anyone else. If the latter, then that is silly since the adapter tells the MC what current to charge at (and is available via the remote API as charger_pilot_current in the charge_state call (the 120V adapter tells it to charge at 12A, for example).
Regarding reaching the dryer outlets, it hasn't been a problem at the two places I use them (one I do have to run inside the dryer vent entrance to the house, which is a bit of a pain, but otherwise the door wouldn't close around the cable) - 20'is more than enough. YMMV of course.
@JAT, you know more about this topic than 99% of the people. I was trying to tell others that Tesla will not make a 14-50 to dryer adapter for fear of liability. That was obvious to you but not to me. If people think 20' is enough to reach dryers, then wait for the tesla adapters that connects to the proprietary connector on the Mobile Connector. With your help, I am making my own.
I'll probably just buy the Tesla made adapter as 20' is plenty for me. I'm just glad they make one.
@Jat and @Nickjhowe,
I just finished making the 10-30 adapter using a combination of your instructions. Have not tested it as my dryer is on 2nd floor far from driveway. I used the Petra dryer cord and the Camco 14-50 receptacle. I left the neutral on the 14-50 unconnected.
Question: The Petra cord is not color coded in any way, all 3 strands/wire are the same color. I matched the physical order to Nick's diagram and am quite sure I did it right. However, does it matter if the X and Y are swapped?(the 2 hots on the 10-30 plug to the 2 hots on the 14-50)
@Hills - I'll let Jat definitively answer that one, but I don't think it does - they are both 120V, just 180° out of phase. As long as you didn't mix a hot for a ground you should be good. :-P
The Petra cord is flat, 3 wires side by side. I assume the outer wires are hot, the center is neutral in this 3 wire cord. In looking at the small size of the physical plug molding itself, it would surprised me greatly if the plug manufacturing workers managed to route the outside hot wire into the center of the plug. I don't think there is enough room for them to make that mistake. The Camco receptacle is roomy, and I had my wife independently trace the wires into the Camco according to your diagram and JAT's description.
As you said, this is for emergency only, and I far prefer the longer distance self-made design gives me, with my 10-45 thirty foot extension cord.
For the 14-30 adapter, I just ordered a color coded dryer cord, so that I don't even have to worry about this issue. Never expected the Petra to have zero markings.
Switching the two "hots" X and Y on 240Vac power will not make a difference since they are 180° out of phase (one is negative of the other at any time). In general the only time switching two phases makes a noticeable difference is driving a motor on 3 phase power, in which case it switches the direction of rotation, but hardly any US residential locations have 3 phase power. I mention 3 phase power because if you happen to use your adapter at a commercial location like some hotels/motels, you will get 208Vac across X and Y since they will be 120° out of phase, but still switching X and Y will not make a difference for the charging application.
However I would strongly encourage you to use an ohmmeter on the de-energized cord to trace each wire end on the "suicide" end to each prong on the plug end before you make any connections, especially if you have any doubt about which wire is which. While you can switch the hots, it would be very bad to switch any hot wire with the neutral/ground connection.
Hills, i also bough the Petra cord - and mine indeed was connected center conductor to ground and the two outer ones to the Hot prongs. That being said, agree w/ Musterion that it's best to ohm it out to be 100% positive.
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