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Does Pano roof sense rain and close?

A big fear is that I will leave the roof open, and it will start to rain. It can be a beautiful, sunny day, and all of a sudden it will start raining, literally, out of the blue. I'm nervous that I will run into a store and leave the roof open and then it will rain, soaking the 17" monitor, say nothing of the leather seats, etc. I know that the windshield wipers sense rain; has anyone heard anything about the roof closing itself? How much of a concern is it to have the screen get "sprinkled?"

I think Elon is very much on board with the "car without recalls" concept! :) From what I can see, his inclination is/was to overbuild -- the famous engineering concept of margin of error/safety margin -- rather than accept "barely good enough". He also has a horror of the thought of floods of (any?) negative customer reports/failure reports once the cars hit the road.

There's obviously a cost limit to what can be done, but if the load-bearing (before crushing) of the MS at 8X its own weight is any indication, many such costs have been accommodated.

I don't see "inverter to charge other cars" as thing that only few people would use. Getting out standard 230V (110V for you Americans) or even three-phase would be very easy and cheap addition, and it would allow using cars as emergency source of electricity in blackouts. Kind of very large UPS for home users. It would also allow a lot more than just charge other cars, basically any home appliance that uses electricity could be used with that. IMO that should be required by law for BEV:s, it would be like having jump cables in an ICE. You could help any future BEV stranded in the street with that.

That kind of extra gizmos allowed by having large battery in BEV is what would make BEV really different from ICE, and I would like to have them all in the car as long as they are not extremely expensive. Something like automatically closing roof in rain is just tiny detail, requires couple of sensors and that's all, everything else is already there, even software to close the roof. Probably costs about same as extra USB ports, which is just couple of cents/car.

Yeah, I'd easily pay atleast $1000 extra for a 230V 16A inverter-driven outlet in the car. That would power my freezer, fridge, TV and some lights for at least 3 days in a power outage. It would also be useful as a power source for power tools where no grid power exists.

Be nice to use the battery for backup power during power outage. However, I don't want to set the precedent of running power tools off grid from MY car. I'm afraid that would lead to my car being used as a truck. Totally don't want that to happen.

@Teoatawki: I'd like at least a 110v in the cabin to charge a laptop, but I get your drift. If you want to run power tools, you should get one of these:

You can get external inverters on the outside of the vehicle to run welders, compressors, etc.

Yes, for emergency use with appliances, etc., 10 or 20 or 50 or 70 kwh is a pretty decent amount of energy, not to be sneezed at!

Robert: Not a likely problem for you Texans, but a common issue here in New England.

Actually, I carry an ice scraper. Although it's infrequently used, when there is ice here it's 3-5 mm all over the car. No way you are going to be driving without scraping the ice off.

True, but if you heat the windows, the layer of ice closest to the glass will melt resulting in an ice floe that can easily be slid off the windshield and other windows by hand.

That's true if you wait half an hour for the warming to take place (okay, maybe 20 minutes). Leaving for work is time sensitive--especially because on those days I drive Denise to her job as well.

That's why you use the smartphone app to tell your car to warm up in advance so it is ready to go when you are.

But doesn't that waste a lot of energy for no real good reason?

And you don't know that the car is covered with ice until you actually go out and look.

Heated windows are not the same as heated car. The energy required if there's no ice is trivial. If there is ice, it's well spent. Heated windows is the way to go.

I don't know. Does it waste energy? You were going to run the heater to make the car comfortable anyway, so why not let it run before you want to get in so you don't have to start driving a freezing cold car and start stripping hat, gloves and layers enroute? But if you have the car plugged in, you're not consuming range from the battery for the warmup.

-- Does it waste energy?

In my opinion, and the readings from the average mpg, it does.

-- You were going to run the heater to make the car comfortable anyway

When the car is running the engine, waste heat is always produced because the gas engine is typically between 34% and 38% efficient (in the Prius) and about 20% efficient in an old fashioned car. This waste heat might as well be used to heat the cabin. Running the car's engine without moving is a waste.

None of that is relevant to an engine-less Model S, especially plugged in waiting for you to get in and use it. Of course, the only time ice is likely to accumulate is when parked outside, which suggests not-plugged in. However, it doesn't take much to warm the cabin. I imagine 1 kwh would be plenty, including de-icing windows (assuming they are heated directly, not just by contact with warm air inside the cabin).

To get an idea of 1kwh worth of heat, imagine a range hotplate red hot for 40-60 minutes.


Yes, I agree that it doesn't have anything to do with an EV, and that when the EV is plugged in (which should be most of the time spent at home, there isn't likely to be much if any ice buildup (assuming things work the way I think they will anyway).

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