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110 wall connection

I am in a HOA owned garage with only 110v available (and little chance of a near-term change). I am concerned with sloppy connectivity with the standard outlet, but the HPWC only goes down to 208v. Short of cannibalizing my charging cable and hard-wiring it into the circuit, are there any suggestions about a better connection? With all the discussion about arching and heat buildup at the wall outlet, I would like a more secure installation. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Are you sure you can use the HPWC? I think you would just use the regular charging unit and plug it into the 110 outlet for 3 miles/hour, no?

Your posting is a bit unclear.

If you're asking whether you can wire an HPWC to 110, the answer is no.

Make sure it's well plugged in. I doubt you have to worry about the overheating occasionally referenced with NEMA 14-50 outlets, which carry six or seven times the power of a 110v outlet, and the software is supposed to detect any big voltage drop. You may want to have some sort of strain relief supporting the UMC since the 110v outlet has much smaller connectors. Also, if the HOA garage is built of concrete there doesn't seem like to be a lot of danger if the outlet melted down.

Yeah, he's talking about the UMC, not the HPWC.

To the OP, don't worry. You'll be fine. And Tesla makes a dandy fancy looking cable caddy for 25 bucks.

http://shop.teslamotors.com/products/replacement-high-power-wall-connect...

If you are really concerned about the issue, have an electrician change your socket. A brand new socket is a 5 dollar part. You do NOT need a GFCI outlet. the UMC has built in GFCI. If your garage already has GFCI and the plug does not wiggle when inserted, it's probably new enough that you don't need to worry about arcing.

If you do replace, this is important. Make sure you side wire it. Not Quickwire/stab wire/backstab it. A side wire connection has a large contact area between the conductors and the terminals. Quickwire is used by DIY's and create a very very small contact area between the conductors and the socket. It does meet code, but I don't know any electricians worth the amps to kill 'em that use Quickwire. Takes an extra minute or two, but good for a lifetime.

If you are a handy guy, you can do it yourself. Otherwise an electrician can replace it in 15 mins. Just get a quote on the phone, greet him with cash. Done.

Thanks for all the input. Unfortunately, my garage is a stand-alone, 32 year old, wooden structure, so fire is a concern. I will replace the outlet as instructed (thanks for the tip jbunn, I didn't know that about a Quickwire/stab connections, but it makes a lot of sense. I have learned a lot in this forum). I will also do something to relieve the weight on the connection, which is my biggest concern about the contact at the connection. Again, thanks for the help.

The other thing you should do is see if the wiring is 12 guage or 14 guage. And then see if the breaker is 15 amps or 20 amps. If you have a 20amp circuit, replace the receptacle with a 20 amp receptacle, NEMA 5-20. Along with the tesla NEMA 5-20 adapter, this will give you 33% faster charging.

Vin 20353
Most buildings have the necessary power it is a matter of whose power you use. The difficulty is pulling it off your portion of your panel , wire runs etc. A HPWC is the best thing for every day charging. If you are an owner of the property it is worth looking into if you are renting then it is open to question. By the way the HPWC needs a 100 amp 2 pole breaker and appropriate wire runs not something to add on standard wall receptacle circuit .

Vin 20353
If you go receptacle shopping get the nylon high grade 20 amp type it has a much better fit to you UMC cord adaptor. Your UMC reads the capability of the circuit and adjust to you wire size etc. The better connection will yield better performance and longer life.

You should not put a 20A receptacle onto a 15A circuit. The 20A receptacle, with its horizontal blade, signifies that you can draw 20A from the receptacle. If it is backed up by 15A wire (14 gauge) and a 15A breaker, that is not cool. That's why I suggested you inspect the receptacle wire and breaker before putting in a 20A receptacle. And yes, there are lots of devices that will draw close to 20A given the chance (heavy duty carpet cleaner, portable x-ray and a Tesla 20A charging cable all come to mind).

You guys know how to fix a leaking faucet, too?

3 months using 120V outlet 4 miles per hour, no problems at all enough for my commute of 20 miles a day.

cberman@washing. I too have 4 months using 120V only with no problems as my commute is less than 15 miles. My only concern is the primitive connection at the outlet.

@VIN20353

Yes, what's wrong with your faucet? We can help you with that issue as well.

Don't worry about the fact that the building is 32 years old and wood. We still build houses out of wood today. 32 years ago was only 1982. Nothing has changed since then. We were using romex back in the late 1920s.

seriously, noting significant has changed in residential wiring since your building was built.

I arranged for my plug to be placed in the ceiling of my garage. The weight of the UMC tends to make its connection a little loose. To keep it tight I loosened the cover on the plug and looped a small bungee under the cover and around the UMC to plug connection. This keeps my UMC high and tight. I use a 10-30 adapter from an unused dryer circuit. I have checked the temperature several times while charging. It stays nice and cool.

@Dwdnjck
I have heard of more than a few EV owners who did the same (had the outlet installed in their ceiling) and installed what is called a "Tool Balancer" that holds the cord up and out of the way. It allows you to grab the charge cable at a height of 5 feet or so, (whatever you set it to), and just pull it down and plug it in.

If you are serious about the best possible outlet, you need to get a "spec" grade outlet. The cost is several times more than the cheapo versions, but they have screw connections and springs for the blade connection are much stronger. Spec grade outlets are overkill for a living room lamp, but they are designed to run the maximum current for years without trouble.

12 AWG wire can use a 20A breaker/fuse and outlet. Actual charge current is 16A if you buy the 20A adapter for the UMC.

14 AWG wire can use a 15A breaker/fuse and outlet. Actual charge current is 12A.


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